Friday 14 March
After a massive cooked breakfast (the B&B had hosted the Welsh Rugby Team and clearly thought everyone ate their sort of quantities), we drove north, in sunshine, arriving at Kaikoura two hours later. This is the Whale-watching capital of NZ; also a centre for viewing Dolphins, Albatross, Fur Seals etc etc. We knew we did not have time to go on a boat trip which is the traditional way to watch all of these - usually on different trips as the mammals/birds are in different places around the peninsula - and did not really expect to see anything in the time available, but managed to get a flight to see the Whales. We were up in the air for 30 minutes - in an 8 seater plane (Richard in co-pilot position) - and saw 5 sperm whales which was a very good sighting. We even saw some Dolphins as the pilot had a bit of time to spare which enabled him to include their area too. Obviously not as good as getting close up at sea but still very exciting - and some exciting aerobatics too by the pilot to get us as close as possible. We also went by car to the Seal Colony on the edge of the cliffs and saw lots of seals very close up, including one who thought I was too close and chased me!
After a massive cooked breakfast (the B&B had hosted the Welsh Rugby Team and clearly thought everyone ate their sort of quantities), we drove north, in sunshine, arriving at Kaikoura two hours later. This is the Whale-watching capital of NZ; also a centre for viewing Dolphins, Albatross, Fur Seals etc etc. We knew we did not have time to go on a boat trip which is the traditional way to watch all of these - usually on different trips as the mammals/birds are in different places around the peninsula - and did not really expect to see anything in the time available, but managed to get a flight to see the Whales. We were up in the air for 30 minutes - in an 8 seater plane (Richard in co-pilot position) - and saw 5 sperm whales which was a very good sighting. We even saw some Dolphins as the pilot had a bit of time to spare which enabled him to include their area too. Obviously not as good as getting close up at sea but still very exciting - and some exciting aerobatics too by the pilot to get us as close as possible. We also went by car to the Seal Colony on the edge of the cliffs and saw lots of seals very close up, including one who thought I was too close and chased me!
Then we travelled on up to Picton to catch the ferry. We had not expected the East Coast to be particularly scenic as everyone raves about the West Coast but it was just as good as the most exciting coastal scenery in Devon or Cornwall, with lots of rollers and spray crashing onto the beaches and rocks.
We handed back our hire car feeling very happy at the good service it had done us - no problems at all throughout the 11 days - and had time for a bit of a walk around Picton Harbour before boarding the ferry. This time we saw the Sounds on the way out as it was still clear and sunny. However, it was windy so we had to sit inside and I actually read some of my book - at last. It was lovely to be met by Wendy and Keith again and to see Belle. We enjoyed being back at their house in Wellington for the night before the next part of our journey.
Thursday 13 March
It would have been good to stay longer in Akaroa but we travelled on the next day, via Governors Bay (surely Christchurch's nobs hill) and Lyttleton Harbour (interesting but rather down at heel), to Christchurch, which is an amazingly compact city built on an easy to follow grid pattern.
It would have been good to stay longer in Akaroa but we travelled on the next day, via Governors Bay (surely Christchurch's nobs hill) and Lyttleton Harbour (interesting but rather down at heel), to Christchurch, which is an amazingly compact city built on an easy to follow grid pattern.
We quickly found our B&B, Pomeroy, which was attached to a former brewery of the same name. The yard behind where we parked the car was a bit off putting but the inside was one of the best, including a beautiful bed made of Rimu. We made a quick turn around and walked into Christchurch, which was only about 15 minutes walk away. As we only had the afternoon we packed in a lot, but not much culture! It had started to drizzle a bit but that's not really a problem when you are sightseeing in a city. We saw the Avon river complete with punts and boater-hatted punters (the tourists pay to be punted); fantastic fountains in front of the beautiful modern Town Hall, and surrounding Victoria Squa
re; the former Provincial Council Building; the Cathedral (and had some lunch in their cafe); the main Department Store - Ballantyne's - definitely a Harrods; and the Botanic Gardens. Between them all we travelled around on the tram. We would have liked to go to the Art Gallery, which is in a wonderful modern building which looked as if it is entirely made of glass; and to the Museum, and Arts and Crafts building - but they will have to wait for another visit. We decided on an early night after all that effort and went to the Pomeroy pub in the former brewery for our meal. We had not expected much of it but found a great pub atmosphere with a strong local community and even its own newspaper. Again we had some good quality food.
re; the former Provincial Council Building; the Cathedral (and had some lunch in their cafe); the main Department Store - Ballantyne's - definitely a Harrods; and the Botanic Gardens. Between them all we travelled around on the tram. We would have liked to go to the Art Gallery, which is in a wonderful modern building which looked as if it is entirely made of glass; and to the Museum, and Arts and Crafts building - but they will have to wait for another visit. We decided on an early night after all that effort and went to the Pomeroy pub in the former brewery for our meal. We had not expected much of it but found a great pub atmosphere with a strong local community and even its own newspaper. Again we had some good quality food. Wednesday 12 March
We left Twizel in beautiful sunshine and stopped at the most southerly po.JPG "Richard and Mount Cook")
int of Lake Pukaki to take photos of Mount Cook! Then we travelled on to Lake Tekapo to admire the little church by the lake and the statue of a sheepdog. The drive onward was through Mackenzie County, farming country. We stopped in Geraldine to admire some of the historic buildings and had a light lunch in the garden of Cafe Verde, a cafe/deli with a beautiful English garden full of roses. We should have taken the scenic route from there but wanted to make tracks so I drove along the only boring road we had come across to date - State Highway 1 - a completely straight road with conifers on both sides. Richard took over at Lincoln, south of Christchurch, and we eventually arrived at Akaroa on the Banks Peninsula. Akaroa is not far from Christchurch geographically but about an hour and a half's drive away taking account of the fact that it is situated on the far side of a former volcanic crater. It would have been good to stay longer and see some of the other bays on the peninsula but we had to cram a lot in in a short time. Akaroa is an ex-French settlement - France's attempt to colonise NZ which did not get anywhere because the English signed a treaty with the Maori very shortly after the French arrived. However the French community stayed and the 'town' is full of historic buildings, a large number of which I photographed! It also has some very nice restaurants and shops and good walks through and around it. Also boats of course - and boat trips, eg to see Dolphins.
After exploring the town, we went back to our B&B - Wilderness House, set in beautiful gardens and with a vineyard behind it - and got ready to go out for the evening, but
before doing so joined our hosts and the other three couples staying for wine (the white made with grapes from their own vines) and canapes - very civilised - and interesting to find out what everyone else had been doing on their travels. We also had the company of George, the family's tabby cat, who unlike ours knows that fires are intended to be sat in front of! (Yes, it is quite chilly in the mornings and evenings though can be quite hot during the day in early Autumn in NZ).
We dined at a modern restaurant, Ma Maison, overlooking the sea and had one of the best meals we had had up to then (and we'd already had some pretty terrific food).
.JPG "Richard and Mount Cook")
int of Lake Pukaki to take photos of Mount Cook! Then we travelled on to Lake Tekapo to admire the little church by the lake and the statue of a sheepdog. The drive onward was through Mackenzie County, farming country. We stopped in Geraldine to admire some of the historic buildings and had a light lunch in the garden of Cafe Verde, a cafe/deli with a beautiful English garden full of roses. We should have taken the scenic route from there but wanted to make tracks so I drove along the only boring road we had come across to date - State Highway 1 - a completely straight road with conifers on both sides. Richard took over at Lincoln, south of Christchurch, and we eventually arrived at Akaroa on the Banks Peninsula. Akaroa is not far from Christchurch geographically but about an hour and a half's drive away taking account of the fact that it is situated on the far side of a former volcanic crater. It would have been good to stay longer and see some of the other bays on the peninsula but we had to cram a lot in in a short time. Akaroa is an ex-French settlement - France's attempt to colonise NZ which did not get anywhere because the English signed a treaty with the Maori very shortly after the French arrived. However the French community stayed and the 'town' is full of historic buildings, a large number of which I photographed! It also has some very nice restaurants and shops and good walks through and around it. Also boats of course - and boat trips, eg to see Dolphins.After exploring the town, we went back to our B&B - Wilderness House, set in beautiful gardens and with a vineyard behind it - and got ready to go out for the evening, but
before doing so joined our hosts and the other three couples staying for wine (the white made with grapes from their own vines) and canapes - very civilised - and interesting to find out what everyone else had been doing on their travels. We also had the company of George, the family's tabby cat, who unlike ours knows that fires are intended to be sat in front of! (Yes, it is quite chilly in the mornings and evenings though can be quite hot during the day in early Autumn in NZ).We dined at a modern restaurant, Ma Maison, overlooking the sea and had one of the best meals we had had up to then (and we'd already had some pretty terrific food).
